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Shop Talk (Page Four) |
| John Greven, luthier |
| FAQ|'s | Most often asked questions answered. | |
| Why do you not make guitars with larger than standard soundholes? |
| Actually, I have made some in the past. I was
responding to specific customer needs at the time. I do
not do them often and do not recommend them. They are a
marketing fad rather than a means of producing a better
sounding guitar. Think "bull frog pucky". The enlarged soundhole is an outgrowth of Clarence White's vintage D-28. The real story behind it is as follows. His very fine sounding Martin D-28 had been beaten to near death by a series of hard playing owners who used heavy strings and big, sharp flat picks. One of the consequences of the gorillas with picks was major wearing out of the soundhole edge (a laWilly Nelson top excavation moved slightly to the northwest). (The guitar also had a neck replacement, but that is another story.) To clean up the resulting mess rather than repair the wear holes, it was decided to take a pen knife (the tool of choice at the time...remember these were the dark ages of guitar repair) and cut away all of the top to the edge of the middle rings of purfling, opening up the soundhole by about 1/2 inch. In typical good old boy, redneck reasoning a "bigger hole lets more sound out", sort of thing. (It's as if, the thinking went, sound were some wirey, fur covered swamp animal just hunkering to get out of this teeny tiny hole and would now suddenly be released......free at last!) Nice try, but no cigar. Clarence's D-28 sounded marvelous BEFORE the change and (go figure!) also sounded marvelous AFTER the change. However, contrary to the myth, it did not sound BETTER because of the change. In all probability, you could cut a few more soundholes into that particular guitar top and it would still sound great. I had the chance to play this guitar for about a week in the early 1970's and I can tell you from personal experience that it really was a very fine sounding instrument, very much in line with other fine sounding vintage D-28's of the period...not BETTER than, but equal to. So, to answer the question, I don't do the large soundhole to make a bigger sounding guitar. I simply build the thing right and it sounds bigger on its own without the gimmicks. |
| What kind of truss rods do you use? |
| I started out in the early 70's using solid steel
bars, a.k.a. Martin at the time. This worked but added
lots of weight to the neck, which I didn't like. In the
late 70's, I switched to a double rod which was
adjustable from the headstock end. I later switched the
adjustment to inside the body in the neck block.The freed
up the headstock for more inlays (!) and strengthened the
headstock-to-neck transition area. I have used this same double rod ever since and still do when I do an adjustable system. My current guitars, however, feature a large epoxy graphite bar with no adjustment instead of the double steel rod. I like this system much better for three reasons: it is simple, it stays rock solid straight forever, and it is very light thus enhancing the overall sound and responsiveness of the instruments. You can order a guitar with either the adjustable or non-adjustable systems. |
| What kind of pick-up system do you recommend using? |
| None, if you can get away with it. If you must amplify (sin of all sins...), repent and use the B-Band under the saddle pickup. I have tried most of the pickups out there and find the B-Band to have the best true acoustic guitar sound and be the least affected by feedback. Instead of a transducer, the pickup is actually a tiny microphone with excellent dynamic range and fidelity. Not perfect, but awfully good. It comes with a lovely end-pin jack pre-amp with little clips instead of solder joints. A 9-volt battery is required. |
| More to come... |
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